Perched on the banks of the River Foyle, on the border between the UK and Ireland, the town of Londonderry (also variously called Derry or Stroke City) is known for its turbulent past and its cultural resilience. But over the years it has transformed into a vibrant city that embraces both its heritage and modern character. From the old city walls to the modern Peace Bridge, Derry-Londonderry is a place where history and renewal walk hand in hand.
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Why Visit Derry-Londonderry
One of Derry’s most striking attractions is the very well preserved 17th century city walls, unique in the United Kingdom in retaining a complete circuit. But you’ll also find museums and murals, modern culture and historic buildings. And a city centre full of places to eat, drink and shop.
The city is also a gateway to two countries. It makes a perfect base for exploring the rugged beauty of Northern Ireland, as well as the towns and countryside of County Donegal in the Republic of Ireland.
Stroke City: What’s In A Name?
The name of the city has long been contested, and you may see it written as Derry, Londonderry, or Derry-Londonderry. In 1613, a royal charter granted by King James I added “London” to the city’s title, creating the new name of Londonderry. This was intended as a tribute to the London guilds who built the city walls.
However many locals prefer the original name of Derry. To avoid controversy, official documents often use Derry/Londonderry (using either a hyphen or a stroke), leading to the nickname “Stroke City”. This dual identity reflects the city’s layered past and its role as a meeting point – of traditions, of history, and of countries.
The Walls Of Londonderry
The city walls were built between 1613 and 1619 as a way of protecting settlers during the Plantation of Ulster. Unusually, the walls have never been breached, thus earning Derry the title of “Maiden City.” This makes the city of Londonderry unique, as few places in Europe offer the chance to stroll around an intact walled city. It is the only town in the United Kingdom whose fortifications remain unbroken – even the more famous walls of York or Chester are incomplete.
Walking the complete circuit of the walls – around a mile – is a must. There’s something about walking right round a town, peering over the walls into little back streets, that gives a sense of connection with all the people that have gone that way before. Sentries keeping a lookout for unwanted visitors, soldiers firing at advancing armies, and generations of ordinary citizens going about their everyday business.
Pass by the four original gates (and the three that were added later) and look out for the collection of cannons. You can imagine what it must have been like to live here when the city was besieged during the 17th century, as Jacobite troops hammered on the gates and tried to break in. There are reminders of the area’s history wherever you walk and – of course – panoramic views of the town, the river and the surrounding countryside.
UK City Of Culture 2013
In 2013, Derry-Londonderry was named the first ever UK City of Culture (more recent titleholders have been Hull, Coventry and Bradford). This was a turning point in its modern identity, with a year-long celebration that included festivals, concerts, and community projects. The award brought international recognition, giving the city yet another name – “Legenderry.”
The Year of Culture demonstrated how a place once scarred by sectarian violence could reinvent itself as a hub of creativity and resilience. The legacy remains, with new festivals, cultural events, and a continuing role for the visual arts.
What To See In Derry-Londonderry
The main sights are as follows:
- St Columb’s Cathedral. This was the first Protestant cathedral to be built in Ireland after the Reformation. It is the oldest building in the city, and in good condition despite the fact that lead was removed from the roof to make bullets during the conflict with King James II.
- The Guildhall. This is a grand neo-Gothic Victorian building with stunning stained glass. Entrance is free, but for a small fee you can take a guided tour.
- Tower Museum. A modern museum telling the story of the city, from its foundation to the Troubles. Exhibits include the Armada shipwreck and the story of local emigration, as well as special exhibitions. At the top of the building is an open air viewing platform with views across the river and the city.
- Museum of Free Derry. Located in the Bogside, the area where the events of Bloody Sunday took place in 1972, this museum provides a deeper understanding of civil rights struggles and the Troubles.
- Bogside murals. Elsewhere in the Bogside area you will find vivid street art depicting key moments of sectarian violence, including the events of Bloody Sunday.
- Peace Bridge. Opened in 2011, this elegant structure spans the River Foyle, symbolising unity and reconciliation.
If you’re looking to explore further afield, Ireland’s County Donegal and the Wild Atlantic Way are on the doorstep. Or you can follow the Causeway Coastal Route along the Northern Ireland coast towards Belfast.
How To Visit Derry-Londonderry
- The City of Derry Airport has flights from Dublin and UK destinations.
- Trains run from Belfast and Coleraine (the Coleraine to Derry line, skirting Lough Foyle, was once described by Michael Palin as “one of the most beautiful rail journeys in the world”).
- Buses also link to Dublin and Belfast.
- Accommodation options range from boutique hotels within the city centre to countryside retreats in County Donegal.
- The city walls are walkable, and the Peace Bridge connects key cultural sites, making it easy to explore on foot.
- A walking tour offers a good introduction to the city.
