Nothing about Lindisfarne is precisely what it seems. An island which isn’t quite an island. An imposing fortification that was transformed into a country house. And, sitting comfortably in the windblown landscape, a garden created by Gertrude Jekyll. It takes a bit of careful planning, but a visit to Lindisfarne is an essential part of any tour of Northumberland.
Contents
A Unique Location
There are two factors that shape Lindisfarne’s unique character. First there is the tide: twice a day this small island is cut off from the mainland by the sea. At low tide, wide sand flats stretch toward the mainland, and cars and pedestrians can approach via the Lindisfarne causeway, while at high tide it becomes an island once more.
The surrounding waters and mudflats form part of the Lindisfarne National Nature Reserve, home to migratory birds, waders, and the occasional colony of grey seals basking on distant sandbanks. From the edge of the island you can look south towards the Northumberland coast, Bamburgh Castle, and the Farne Islands.
The Holy Island of Lindisfarne
The second factor – inextricably linked with this cycle of connection and isolation – is Lindisfarne’s history as a holy island and place of pilgrimage. The story of the Holy Isle began in 635 CE when an Irish monk named Aidan arrived from Iona, with the intention of establishing a Christian mission in Northumbria, and was granted permission to establish a monastery on Lindisfarne.
Aidan was followed by St Cuthbert (patron saint of Northumberland), and the island became an important centre of Christianity. It was known for its scholarship, and it was here that the magnificent Lindisfarne Gospels (a richly illustrated 8th century manuscript, now held in the British Museum) were produced.
The monastery was attacked by Viking raiders in 793, and the island was abandoned for several centuries until monks from Durham Cathedral re-established the community after the Norman Conquest. Border wars meant that the priory was never completely secure, and it was finally closed by Henry VIII as part of his dissolution of the monasteries.
However, now as in Anglo-Saxon times, Lindisfarne is regarded as one of the country’s holiest places. It continues to attract pilgrims, and the walk across the causeway is known as the Pilgrim’s Way.
The Castle That Became A Country House
Perched on a rocky outcrop above the sea, Lindisfarne Castle dominates the island skyline. Built in the 16th century by Henry VIII, using stone taken from the dissolved priory, it was intended to prevent Scottish forces from gaining a foothold on this vulnerable stretch of coastline. Despite its formidable appearance, the castle saw remarkably little action: in more than three centuries of military use, only one cannon shot was ever fired, during the Civil War.
The castle’s character changed dramatically in 1903 when it was purchased by Edward Hudson, the founder of Country Life magazine. He was in search of a romantic retreat rather than a fortress, and he commissioned the architect Sir Edwin Lutyens to transform the building into an Arts and Crafts-style holiday home. He also asked Gertrude Jekyll, the renowned garden designer, to create a walled garden on a sheltered patch of land beneath the castle.
The castle and its garden were acquired by the National Trust in 1944. Today’s visitors can experience the castle as it would have been in Hudson’s time, the rooms set as if awaiting weekend guests. You can climb up to the castle ramparts to enjoy the sweeping views of sea and sky, and explore Jekyll’s garden, an ever changing haven of colourful flowers, heritage vegetables and carefully planned borders.
What Else To See On Lindisfarne
For those who have a bit more time, there is plenty to see on Lindisfarne. The island is home to a small community of around 150 people and you will find shops, cafés and two churches. You can buy local crafts and produce, including the famous Lindisfarne Mead – sales of goods are not limited to the shops but can often be found on stalls outside individual houses.
The lime kilns at Castle Point are a reminder of 19th century industrial activity, and the Lifeboat Museum tells the story of the island’s lifeboats (including the tale of local heroine Grace Darling). Look out too for the boat sheds (at different points around the coast), upturned boats that were repurposed as fishermen’s sheds.
The Lindisfarne Heritage Centre has exhibits about the island and a large bookshop.
Lindisfarne Priory
You can also visit the remains of the ancient Lindisfarne Priory, now managed by English Heritage. The 12th century buildings are richly decorated: you’ll see ornate carvings around the doorway and the “rainbow arch” that once supported the tower.
The small Priory Museum is full of Christian and Anglo-Saxon artefacts, and has information about St Cuthbert, the monks of the priory, and the Lindisfarne Gospels.
Nature And Walking Trails
Although the island is small there are a number of walking trails, taking in beaches, sand dunes and rocky coastline. These provide an opportunity for spotting birds, seals and other wildlife, dramatic seascapes, and views towards the Farne Islands. The island is also the end point of the 100 km St Cuthbert’s Way, which follows the saint’s journey from Melrose in Scotland.
Visiting Lindisfarne
The crossing to Lindisfarne on the tidal causeway is atmospheric but needs to be planned in advance. Tide times change every day, according to the lunar cycle, and visitors must check safe crossing times before setting out, allowing extra time for weather conditions such as strong winds. This is particularly the case if you are crossing on foot, as it can take up to two hours to cross the 4.8 km of the sandy Pilgrim’s Way (road traffic makes it inadvisable to walk across the tarmac).
Depending on the tide times you can expect between three to seven hours on the island on any given day. Shorter visits mean you are unlikely to be able to explore everything that Lindisfarne has to offer, so you will need to prioritise your exploration. Alternatively you could experience it as the monks once did, by staying overnight when the tide has risen and Lindisfarne is cut off from the outside world.
Practicalities For Your Visit To Lindisfarne
- The island can be approached by car or on foot. Always check tide times and safe crossing times before travelling. The causeway is submerged at high tide and impassable.
- Boat trips to Lindisfarne are available from Seahouses.
- You can take a guided day trip from Edinburgh, Newcastle or other locations.
- It is also possible to take a guided walk across the tidal causeway.
- Lindisfarne Castle is in the ownership of the National Trust, and entry is free to Trust members.
- The walk from the main car park to Lindisfarne Castle takes around fifteen minutes. The castle involves steep, uneven steps and may not be suitable for those with mobility issues. Strong footwear is recommended.
- The Priory is owned by English Heritage, with free entrance to members.
- Overnight accommodation is limited and booking ahead is essential, especially in summer. The Ship Inn is a traditional pub with rooms and a restaurant, and elsewhere you can find B&Bs, self‑catering cottages, and Christian retreat houses.
- There are several pubs and cafés on the island.
I visited Lindisfarne with the Newcastle Tour Company, who also offer a range of tours around Newcastle, including a Street Food Tour.
