Discover Ballyshannon, The Oldest Town In Ireland

Ballyshannon is a town of legends, both old and new. Located in County Donegal, on the banks of the River Erne, it claims to be Ireland’s oldest town. It certainly has a colourful history, enhanced by mythological origins and literary connections. And the legends continue into the present day, with modern music, a town full of artists, and an abundance of traditional Irish pubs.

Mythological Origins Of Ireland’s Oldest Town

Tradition holds that Ballyshannon was founded by the Parthalonians, a mythical group who arrived in Ireland from Greece following a great flood around 5,000 years ago. Whether this is fact or fiction, archaeological remains – megalithic tombs, ring forts and souterrains – confirm that the area has been continuously settled since prehistory, a result of its strategic position at the mouth of the River Erne, once a plentiful source of salmon.

Later centuries reflect wider Irish history. Ballyshannon emerged as a Gaelic stronghold under the O’Donnell clan of Tyrconnell, but in the 17^th century it became a key site in the Plantation of Ulster, an attempt by King James I of England to establish control of the region. By the 18^th and 19^th centuries, Ballyshannon was both a trading hub and a departure point for emigrants, linking Donegal to the Irish diaspora.

More about the early history of Donegal: The Ancient Sites Of Inishowen.

The Pauper’s Graveyard

High above the town, on the Hill of the Fairies, is St Anne’s Church. According to tradition this was the home of a Fairy King and the burial place of the legendary High King Hugh. St Patrick is said to have visited the hill in the 5^th century. More recently it is home to a graveyard that tells stories of both privilege and poverty. Among its notable burials is William Allingham (see below), but at the back lies the Paupers’ Graveyard.

During the Great Famine of the 19^th century the Ballyshannon Workhouse needed to find a burial ground for poor people who were dying of disease and hunger. A space behind the church was donated for workhouse inhabitants, who were buried in unmarked graves. Recent research has sought to uncover the identities and lives of those buried here, as a way of restoring dignity to forgotten residents.

Literary Connections

Ballyshannon is proud of its literary connections. The poet William Allingham, born here in 1824, immortalised the town in verse, capturing its landscapes and folk traditions. His work, often infused with nostalgia, remains central to the identity of Ballyshannon.

The town also boasts (admittedly tenuous) links to Gothic literature. Bram Stoker, creator of Dracula, had roots here – his mother, Charlotte Mathilda Blake Thornley, was from Ballyshannon. Mary Shelley, author of Frankenstein, also has a connection: her grandmother, Elizabeth Dixon, lived on Main Street.

Modern Legends 1: Rory Gallagher

No account of Ballyshannon is complete without mentioning Rory Gallagher, the legendary rock guitarist who was born here in 1948. A statue of him stands at the centre of the town, and his legacy is celebrated annually at the Rory Gallagher International Tribute Festival, which draws fans from across the globe.

This is just one of the town’s traditional music festivals. The Ballyshannon Folk & Traditional Music Festival is the longest running folk festival in Ireland, and other events take place during the year. At these times the pubs and streets are filled with music and revelry, swelling the town’s population to many times its normal size.

Modern Legends 2: Dicey Reilly’s

The town may be small, but it still has 17 pubs. Of these the most famous is Dicey Reilly’s, home to the Donegal Brewing Company, the first microbrewery in Donegal and among the earliest in Ireland. In addition to its craft beers, the pub has a carefully curated selection of spirits and wines. Next door is an award winning off licence with a full range of Irish produced whiskeys and other spirits, and wines from around the world.

Inside, Dicey Reillys retains its traditional charm, with wooden panelling, low lighting, shelves of books, and a convivial atmosphere. It has live music events and a pizza hut in the beer garden. Unsurprisingly, the pub becomes a lively meeting place during the town’s many festivals.

Local Hands: An Arts Collective

Ballyshannon is also an artists’ town, a place where you can find everything from public art to contemporary paintings to local crafts. Local Hands is an arts collective, and you can see a wide selection of work in their shop on Main Street. Drop in for a browse and to meet the artists who are very happy to chat about their creative activity.

How To Visit Ballyshannon

• Ballyshannon is in County Donegal in the north-west of Ireland, around 20 km from Donegal Town and 80 km from Letterkenny.
• The town lies on the Wild Atlantic Way, a 2,600 km driving route along the west coast of Ireland.
• The closest airport is Donegal (60 km). Belfast International is 128 km away, and Dublin 175 km.
• You may wish to hire a car for your visit.
• You can find more information about the Rory Gallagher Festival and the Ballyshannon Folk and Traditional Music Festival on their websites.
• For accommodation options have a look at the suggestions on booking.com.

This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Ballyshannon.

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