An elegant Regency town on the edge of the Cotswolds, a place that combines culture and festivals with green spaces and lively restaurants. This is the spa town of Cheltenham, and – as I discovered on my recent trip – it is the perfect place for a short break. Whether you are drawn by history, architecture, shopping or the arts, here are some of the best things to do when you visit Cheltenham…
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Why Visit Cheltenham?
Cheltenham is often described as the most complete Regency town in England, shaped by the development of spa facilities in the early 19th century. Its elegant streets, crescents and parks sit alongside modern shopping districts and gourmet restaurants. Today it is also known as a festival town, home to world‑class events and an internationally renowned racecourse.
Cheltenham is conveniently located both for the towns and cities of the West Midlands and for the villages and countryside of the Cotswolds.
Discovering Regency Cheltenham
Cheltenham’s rise as a fashionable spa town began after the discovery of mineral springs in 1716. It was believed that the waters had health‑giving properties, and by the late 18th century the town was booming, attracting aristocratic visitors – including King George III – who came to take the waters.
These visitors created a demand for elegant promenades, assembly rooms and landscaped walks, and the town expanded during the Regency and early Victorian periods. Eventually there were two separate spa districts – Montpellier and Pittville – each with their own pump rooms and pleasure gardens. By this time Cheltenham had overtaken longer established spa towns such as Bath to become one of the most fashionable resorts in England.
A self‑guided walking trail can be downloaded from the Visit Cheltenham website, taking you from Montpellier to the edge of the Pittville district. This also enables you to explore the town centre: many of the modern shops are housed in historic buildings, creating a sense of continuity.
Montpellier District
The Montpellier district was the first area to be developed for spa visitors. Henry Thomson built the first pump room in 1809; this was later replaced by a grander version (it now houses the Ivy Restaurant). Other spaces were laid out, including The Promenade, a long tree-lined avenue, and the Montpellier Gardens. New houses were built, with white façades and wrought iron balconies, including the perfectly formed Royal Crescent.
As the town modernised some buildings were adapted to other uses, but the Regency architecture and spa heritage are still very much in evidence. Visitors can still stroll along the Promenade, through the Montpellier and Imperial Gardens, and around the Royal Crescent, much as they did in the 19th century.
Some elements are unique to Cheltenham. Pride of place must go to the Caryatids, the 32 statues based on the Acropolis in Athens that support the shops of Montpellier Walk. But look out too for the ornate Neptune’s Fountain, created in 1893 and reputedly inspired by the Trevi Fountain in Rome. And for the early 20th century Town Hall (built as an assembly rooms and still in use as a public space rather than a municipal building).
Pittville Park
Pittville was developed by Joseph Pitt as a rival to Montpellier. Beginning in 1824, he planned an entire new town, with its own Pump Room as well as walks, gardens, and around 600 new houses. Although he ran into financial difficulties and the project was never finished, Pittville Park and the houses around it became very fashionable.
Today you can walk along Pittville Lawn, an elegant road lined with large Regency and Victorian houses, towards the park. This is an extensive green space with trees, grassland and a lake, with the impressive Pittville Pump Rooms at the far end. The Pump Room is now used for events and is occasionally open to the public.
What Else To See And Do In Cheltenham
Cheltenham offers a wide range of attractions beyond its historic streets. Whether you enjoy museums, art, theatre or shopping, there’s plenty to fill a weekend.
Museums
I visited the very interesting Holst Victorian House. As the birthplace of the composer Gustav Holst, and the only Victorian house in Cheltenham open to the public, the museum explores both aspects of its history. The house is furnished in Victorian style (with many of the Holst family’s personal possessions) and a series of video presentations around the house give information both about Holst himself and about the lives of the people who lived here.
Elsewhere in Cheltenham is the Wilson Art Gallery & Museum. Here you can learn more about the history of Cheltenham and the surrounding area, and explore the artworks and other collections.
Art Trail
Cheltenham has a vast amount of public art, from statues and sculptures to colourful murals. You can spot the art as you wander around the town, or along the Honeybourne Line, the trail along a disused railway line that links the town to the railway station.
You could also follow the town Art Trail, which highlights public artworks and sculptures across the town. Download it from the Visit Cheltenham website.
Theatre And Entertainment
Cheltenham has a number of theatres and arts centres. I attended a performance at the Everyman Theatre, which hosts a range of touring productions. Quite apart from the play, the theatre itself was worth a visit: it is a grand and beautifully restored building designed by Frank Matcham in 1891, the oldest of his theatres still in use. Tours of the theatre are also available.
Shops And Restaurants
Around the town centre you will find a wide variety of independent boutiques and well‑known brands, many housed in historic buildings. And there are many restaurants, ranging from casual cafés to fine dining in the Montpellier district.
At one end of the High Street is the Brewery Quarter, a lively mixed‑use development of restaurants, shops and entertainment venues.
Festivals And Events
Cheltenham also has a well deserved reputation as a festival town with the annual Jazz Festival and the Cheltenham Literature Festival bringing internationally renowned performers, writers and speakers to the town.
Then there is the world famous Cheltenham Racecourse, home to the Cheltenham Festival and the Gold Cup, one of the biggest events in the racing calendar.
Round About Cheltenham
Cheltenham is perfectly placed for exploring the Cotswolds region, with its rolling hills, honey‑coloured villages and scenic walking routes. A popular nearby attraction is Sudeley Castle, a historic estate with royal connections and beautiful grounds in a countryside setting.
Where To Stay When You Visit Cheltenham
There are lots of hotels and apartments in and around Cheltenham, from boutique properties to larger chains. The more expensive hotels tend to be around the Montpellier area, but there are budget options elsewhere.
I stayed at the Cotswold Grange Hotel in the Pittville area, a grand Victorian house with a large car park and easy walking distance to the centre of town. The room was comfortable and decorated in rustic style, and I had a view of the Cotswold Hills. Breakfast was good, and the location made it easy to explore both Pittville and the rest of Cheltenham on foot.
How To Get To Cheltenham
- Cheltenham is well connected by road and rail.
- There are regular rail services from major cities including London (around 2 hours), Bristol (about 40 minutes) and Birmingham (about 45 minutes). The railway station is a little way from the town centre, but there are regular buses or you can take a pleasant stroll along the Honeybourne Line into town.
- If you are driving you will find easy access via the M5.
- The town’s compact layout means most attractions are within walking distance.
Thanks to Visit Cheltenham and the Cotswold Grange Hotel for their hospitality during my stay in Cheltenham.
This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in the article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Cheltenham.
