A leafy riverside walk bookended by the Houses of Parliament and the City of London. An area jam-packed with historic buildings, gardens and more statues and monuments than you could mention in a single article. This is London’s Victoria Embankment, a short walk full of surprises.
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What Is The Victoria Embankment?
The Victoria Embankment is a walk and roadway beside the north bank of the River Thames, running between Westminster Bridge and Blackfriars Bridge. Designed by Sir Joseph Bazalgette in the 1860s it was just one part of a scheme that also included the Albert Embankment and the Chelsea Embankment.
Prior to the construction there was no public access to this part of the river. There were also concerns about drainage and sewage disposal. The Thames Embankment had several aims: to improve sanitation, to build an additional roadway to ease traffic congestion elsewhere, and to provide a public amenity. The result was a new system of sewers beneath a road built on reclaimed land.
The Victoria Embankment was the most impressive part of the scheme. Trees were planted alongside the road, together with a series of public gardens. Then, as now, this allowed Londoners a scenic promenade along the river. And over time that walk has been enhanced by the addition of statues, monuments, and places catering for visitors.
A Walk Along The Victoria Embankment
The Victoria Embankment is 2km long and, according to Google Maps, it takes 32 minutes to walk. But if you stop to look at everything along the way it could take all day! On one side you can walk beside the river and look across to the South Bank; on the other you can walk through the gardens and enjoy the grand buildings. One possibility is to walk along one side and back along the other, or you could do as I did and keep crossing and re-crossing the road!
Start your walk at Westminster Pier, noting the Houses of Parliament and the imposing statue of Boudicea and Her Daughters. Note also the first curiosity of the walk: the copper covered Tide Gauge Hut which sends information about the depth of the water to the Thames Barrier further downstream. Stay on this side, or cross the road to the Whitehall Gardens.
The gardens are full of plants, trees, and statues. Further along the road you will find a bandstand and some small fountains. This area is very much an amenity for the locals, and I saw people jogging, playing table tennis, or sitting on the benches to eat their lunch.
Passing the Savoy Hotel, Somerset House and the Temple area you come to the grand arch of the King’s Reach Commemoration Memorial. Here you will spot two dragons by the side of the road, an indication that you have now entered the City of London. The Embankment seems to peter out a bit as you approach Blackfriars Bridge, but by now you are in the City and there is lots more for you to explore.
Notable Features Of The Victoria Embankment
I have listed below some of the main features of the Victoria Embankment, including a few short diversions…
Tattershall Castle
The PS Tattershall Castle was originally built as a ferry. Between 1934 and 1973 it took passengers across the River Humber from Hull to New Holland in Lincolnshire. It was also called into action in World War II, transporting troops and supplies along the Humber. The ship was towed to its current position on the Thames in 1976.
Today you can step on board the Tattershall Castle to enjoy a drink or a meal.
The Sherlock Holmes
A diversion along Northumberland Avenue will take you to the historic Sherlock Holmes pub. This is themed around the fictional detective, and is packed with rare memorabilia. Upstairs you can even see a recreation of his flat in Baker Street.
Be warned that the pub is very popular, and you may wish to book in advance if you want to have lunch here. Just around the corner the Ship and Shovell provides an alternative – also a popular historic pub, but not quite so busy.
If you would like to take in another curiosity before returning to The Embankment, a short walk will take you to Charing Cross railway station. Here you can see the ornate 19th century reconstruction of one of the famous Eleanor Crosses.
York Watergate
At some distance from the road, in the Victoria Embankment Gardens, is the York Watergate. Built in 1626, this was once a riverside entrance to York House, home of the Duke of Buckingham. Boats would arrive along the Thames, and turn through the gate into the Duke’s estate.
This ornate structure, with its sculpted stone and coat of arms is all that now remains of York House. You may wonder why a gateway to the river is so far from the water. However it is not the gate that has moved; it is the river itself. The building of the Embankment altered the course of the water, so that the historical watergate is now stranded some distance away!
Cleopatra’s Needle
Cleopatra’s Needle is one of a pair of monuments created in Egypt around 1500 BCE. It has had a varied history, having been moved to Alexandria by the Romans in 12 BCE and later falling into neglect. It arrived in its current location in 1877, the other of the pair now being in Central Park in New York.
The Needle is an imposing structure, 28m tall and covered with Egyptian hieroglyphics. It is flanked by two enormous sphinxes: these are not original to the column but were created by George Vulliamy, an English architect, to complement the obelisk in its new location. Note also the shrapnel scars at the base of the monument, the result of a nearby bomb in the First World War.
The Savoy Hotel
Set back on the opposite side of the road is the grand building of the Savoy Hotel. This was built in 1889 by Richard D’Oyly Carte (patriarch of the D’Oyly Carte family who later lived at Coleton Fishacre in Devon). It was the first purpose built luxury hotel in London and became a by-word for glamour and occasional notoriety.
Before the hotel was built this was the site of the Savoy Palace, and later of the Savoy Hospital for the poor. You can still visit the one remaining part of the hospital, the King’s Chapel of the Savoy. The interior is mostly 16th century, but there is also some impressive modern stained glass.
If your budget doesn’t run to visiting the Savoy Hotel itself, you can experience a part of the building by making a detour to the Coal Hole pub on the Strand. This quirky building is located in the hotel’s former coal cellar! But be warned: avoid peak times, as the pub is extremely popular with local office workers.
Somerset House
As you pass Waterloo Bridge you will come to Somerset House. On the site of an earlier Tudor palace, this was a purpose-built government building from the 18th century. It is still partly used as offices but now incorporates a variety of public areas. It is home to the Courtauld Gallery and to various exhibition spaces, cafés and restaurants. And in the winter the central courtyard is converted into a giant ice rink.
You can enter Somerset House from the Embankment, but note that you will have to take the lift or stairs to the main level. If you book in advance you may be able to join a Historical Highlights Tour. This includes some otherwise inaccessible parts of the building. A highlight of the tour is the intriguing Deadhouse, an underground relic of the old palace where some old tombs still remain.
The Artist’s Garden
On the roof of Temple Station is the Artist’s Garden, created in 2021. This is an outdoor exhibition space that hosts installations by women artists. It is also a peaceful out of the way spot with a riverside vista and views across to the South Bank and the London Eye.
The exhibits change all the time. The first time I visited there was a very large sculpture of different coloured pipework; more recently I saw a single sculpture described as an “unruly fountain” with esoteric and classical influences. Whatever is on display at any given time is guaranteed to be surprising!
The Temple
The Temple area incorporates the Inner Temple and the Middle Temple, two of London’s Inns of Court. Historically this was the area owned by the Knights Templar, but now it is an important legal district. It is a bit like a small town of its own, and fascinating to walk around.
The most important sight here is the Temple Church. The church has some impressive vaulting and an upper gallery with unusual Victorian tiles. It is also interesting for its information boards, telling the story of the church, the Knights Templar and the Magna Carta (the latter because King John came to this church for his initial discussions with the barons).
Tours of the Middle Temple are available. You can also visit the Temple Gardens (note that the Inner Temple Garden is normally only open between 12.30 and 3.00). And you can enjoy a drink or a snack in the Garden Room.
Extending Your Walk
The Victoria Embankment is just a tiny part of the Thames Path, a long distance walk that covers the whole course of the River Thames, including both sides of the river as it runs through London. Whichever direction you walk in there is a lot more to discover…
And, if you’re tempted to spend more time exploring a different side of the city, have a look at this post – 22 Unique Things To Do In London.
This article is now featured on GPSMyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours in London.
