Visitors to the Costa Brava often overlook Girona, heading instead to the regional capital Barcelona. But Girona has some of the most complete city walls in Spain, medieval streets that seem hardly to have changed over centuries, and lots of traditional Catalan restaurants. What more reason could you want for spending a day (or two) exploring one of Catalonia’s major cities?

The City Walls of Girona
Girona’s walls exist for a good reason. Historically this was a wealthy city, causing it to be attacked and besieged on a number of occasions. The first walls were built by the Romans, but they were rebuilt and extended during the Middle Ages. Fortunately there is no risk of siege today and the walls now serve a rather different purpose, aiming to attract people to the city rather than keep them out. To this end much of the wall has been reinforced so that tourists can walk around the historical defences, only stopping at the point where the river forms a natural barrier.

We joined the wall close to the Cathedral, walking through old cemeteries and parks and past houses built into the fabric of the wall itself until we reached the recently strengthened section where you can walk along the top. Unlike some other city walls I’ve walked around these ones dip up and down, reflecting the undulating landscape. If you have a head for heights you can climb one of the lookout towers for spectacular views over the surrounding hills (even if you don’t climb to the top the views from the wall are still pretty good). And you can peer down into the town for rooftop views of the Cathedral, churches and houses.

All my readers can get a 5% discount on small group tours in Barcelona with LivSpain. Just use discount code WORLDWIDEWRITER |
The Town Inside the Walls
When we got to the end of the wall it was time to explore the old town. You could spend hours just in the Cathedral with its massive interior (apparently the second widest nave in the world), vivid stained glass and so many treasures, including a 12th century wooden Madonna, that many of them are housed in a separate museum area. For me the highlight was the cloisters, a large light area whose stone pedestals were carved with fantastical figures and biblical scenes.

There was lots more we could have seen, including more churches and the Arab Baths. But we didn’t want to miss the pleasure of just walking around the city with its narrow cobbled streets and tall buildings that give welcome shade from the sun. Many of the roads and passages are too narrow for traffic, giving the feel of a long vanished era.

Later, we sat in one of the numerous small restaurants to enjoy fresh fish and local wine. There was just one thing left to do. Legend has it that, if you kiss the bottom of the lioness beside the church of St Felix, you will be sure to return to Girona.
This post is now available as an app for mobile devices – click here to find out more.
10 thoughts on “The Old Town and Walls of Girona, Costa Brava”
Ahh those beautiful ancient cobbled streets with their high buildings! I’ve not visited Girona, but I have been briefly to the Costa Brava and would love to explore some more. Coming from Perth in Australia, it’s this type of ‘old’ which I sometimes yearn for.
There’s a lot to explore in the region – I recommend a return visit. (Of course Australia is beautiful too, but in a different way!)
One of my favorite cities in the world! Thanks for taking me on a great nostalgia trip, Karen. It will have to hold me until I have another chance to visit Costa Brava. Love the food, the people, and of course the history.
It was my first time there and I very much enjoyed it. Like you, I’d like to go back and explore it more.
You had me at walled city and cobblestone streets. I have friends who keep encouraging me to go too but I won’t be driving like they did!
You see an awful lot more on foot!
There is something magical about being inside the walls of a city. Lucca, Italy is one of our favorite walled cities.
I agree! And I love Lucca too.
Isn’t it fun that Girona has been selected for the next season of Game of Thrones? It’s really the perfect choice. We can’t wait to return to Costa Brava and do more exploring such as you did here.
I hadn’t seen that about Game of Thrones – it’ll be great for the city.