In self-imposed exile from England, the English poet Lord Byron found a new chapter of his life in Italy. He wrote some of his most mature works in the city of Ravenna, but his time here was also marked by his romantic passions and political endeavours. His presence left an indelible mark on the city, and now you can learn more about Byron in Ravenna at the recently opened Byron Museum.
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Byron And Ravenna
Lord Byron was one of the greatest English poets of the 19th century, known for works such as Don Juan and Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage. He was also a famous (or infamous) lover, a traveller, and – in later life – a political activist. His lifestyle was unconventional and he was eventually forced into exile, partly because of his bisexuality (illegal at that time), and partly because of a scandalous affair with his own half-sister.
Byron arrived in Ravenna in 1819, following his then mistress, Teresa Guiccioli, from his former home in Venice. Although married to Count Alessandro Guiccioli, Teresa was involved in a love affair with Byron for many years, and their intense relationship was seen as emblematic of Romantic love.
Byron lived in the Palazzo Guiccioli with Teresa and her husband. Here he became deeply involved in local politics, supporting the local freedom fighters. At one point the palazzo was used to store arms belonging to the Italian independence movement. Another slightly bizarre aspect of his life in the palace was his maintenance of a large menagerie of animals, including monkeys, peacocks and several enormous dogs.
It was here in the palazzo that Byron wrote some of his last important works, including The Prophecy of Dante and Cain.
Byron Museum in Ravenna
The Palazzo Guiccioli has now been transformed into the Byron Museum, dedicated to the poet’s life and legacy. Restoring the palazzo was a ten-year project, during which frescoes were uncovered, and a World War II bunker was found in the grounds. The museum, which opened in November 2024, now offers an imaginative multimedia experience.
The rationale of the museum is that an understanding of Byron’s life is essential to an understanding of his poetry. So visitors are taken on a journey through his life and travels, with each room combining text, multimedia, and museum exhibits. These include personal items such as locks of hair and even some scraps of Byron’s skin hoarded by the besotted Teresa. It all serves to bring Byron – the man and his works – to life.
Fittingly, given Byron’s political activities in Ravenna, the upper rooms of the palace now house a Museum of the Risorgimento. This occupies the grand rooms that Byron once lived in: of particular interest here is the frescoes that were discovered during the renovation works. These were copies of works by Titian and are thought to have been commissioned by Byron himself to adorn the room in which he worked.
Where Else Can You Find Byron in Ravenna?
Ravenna is very proud of its association with Byron and there are echoes of him throughout the city. You’ll find the Hotel Centrale Byron and the Cafè Byron, and there is a memorial plaque in the Piazza San Francesco. The latter marks the location of the former Albergo Imperiale, where Byron stayed when he first came to Ravenna in 1819. This location was close to the tomb of Dante, who was of course Ravenna’s other famous poet, and who was a source of inspiration for Byron.
A short distance from the city, the pine forest of Classe was a favourite spot for Byron. He often rode on horseback here, finding inspiration in the natural landscape. This forest, rich in history and folklore, was also a regular haunt of Dante.
After exploring Byron’s haunts, you could enjoy an excellent meal at the Taverna Byron, in the cellars of the Palazzo Guiccioli. A perfect end to a day steeped in history and romance!
Thanks to Emilia Romagna Tourism for arranging my trip to Ravenna, and to Professors Gregory Dowling and Diego Saglia for their informative tour around the Byron Museum.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Ravenna.
