Vienna may be best known for its imperial grandeur and artistic heritage, but its history dates back to Roman times. Beneath the modern city lie the remains of Vindobona, once a thriving military camp and civilian settlement along the northern border of the Roman Empire. Although the Roman city has now largely disappeared, you can find remnants of Roman Vienna if you look hard enough. And there is more to discover at nearby Carnuntum.
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Roman Vindobona
Vindobona, the site of the modern city of Vienna, was a legionary camp strategically positioned along the Danube Limes, the empire’s fortified frontier. The military base housed thousands of Roman soldiers, protecting trade routes and defending against Germanic tribes. The camp and associated settlement were established in 97CE. The population grew to around 30,000 inhabitants and the area enjoyed a period of increased prosperity.
Roman Vindobona consisted of the legionary fortress and settlement, and a civilian town to the southeast. The fortress was located in precisely the same place where the Historic Centre of Vienna now stands. The civilian town was in what is now the 3rd district (Landstraße). Nothing of the latter is now visible although archaeological excavations have uncovered traces of residential buildings and infrastructure.
The Fortress Of Carnuntum
44 km to the east of Vienna, Carnuntum was a major military settlement and legionary fortress. Like Vindobona it served as a key defensive stronghold on the River Danube. It also flourished as a civilian town, with grand structures, including amphitheatres, baths and temples.
The fortress and the town had a combined population of around 50,000. However Carnuntum was mostly destroyed by an earthquake in the 4th century and the site was subsequently abandoned. Excavations began in the 20th century and are still continuing.
The Danube Limes, A UNESCO World Heritage Site
Like Hadrian’s Wall and the Antonine Wall (in England and Scotland respectively), the Danube Limes marked and protected the boundary of the Roman Empire. The River Danube itself formed a natural boundary, but extra defences were provided by a series of military complexes, watchtowers, and fortified towns like those at Vindobona and Carnuntum.
Stretching from Germany to Slovakia, the Danube Limes are inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a recognition of the military and cultural influence of Rome along the Danube. Of the 600 km of the World Heritage Site, 360 km are located in Austria. Vindobona and Carnuntum are considered among the most accessible parts of the site.
Exploring Roman Vienna
It has to be said that Vienna does not have substantial Roman remains. However the layout of the Roman city is still apparent in the historic city (Innere Stadt). The fashionable shopping street of Kärntner Straße was once a major road known as Strata Carinthianorum, or Carinthian Street. And Der Graben, the lively area beside the Cathedral, was marked by a long ditch. Around the old town is the monumental boulevard of the Ringstraße, built where the Roman city walls once stood.
You’ll find Roman ruins at Michaelerplatz and in the Roman Museum. And there are ancient artefacts on display at the Wien Museum and the Kunsthistorisches Museum. Elsewhere in the old town you may spot a column from an ancient Roman bath at the end of Sterngasse.
But don’t be fooled by reports of the remains of a Roman temple in the grounds of Schönbrunn Palace. This is a folly, built centuries later!
Michaelerplatz
In the heart of the city at Michaelerplatz an open excavation reveals foundations and walls from Roman houses within the military camp, with evidence of under floor heating. It has been speculated that these buildings may once have been part of a brothel used by Roman soldiers, but there is no evidence to support this.
(Note that this site also includes non-Roman remains including 19th century foundations and drainage canals, and a bit of Renaissance wall.)
Roman Museum
Probably the best place to learn about Roman Vienna is at the Römermuseum at Hoher Markt. This was the site of extensive archaeological excavations: most of these are now hidden beneath the surrounding buildings but you can see the remains of two Roman officers’ houses in the basement of the museum.
Upstairs the museum has lots of information about the Roman settlement and a number of artefacts recovered locally, giving an insight into daily life in the Roman town.
Other Museums In Vienna
The Wien Museum on Karlsplatz tells the story of Vienna from its beginnings, and has a substantial collection of Roman archaeological finds from local excavations.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum (also known as the Museum of Fine Arts) has a collection of Roman artefacts, including statues, everyday objects and jewellery. These were collected by the Habsburg emperor Rudolf II in the 16th century, and are not limited to local finds, coming from elsewhere in Austria and around the empire.
A Visit To Carnuntum
A short journey from Vienna takes you to Römerstadt Carnuntum. This is a bit of a work in progress, but the archaeological park features a small exhibition area and several reconstructed buildings, including villas, baths and workshops. You’ll also see herb gardens and some fragments of Roman road.
The site is scattered: a shuttle bus takes visitors to the Museum Carnuntinum, 7 km away. This is set out in the style of a Roman villa and includes a vast amount of information and artefacts. Elsewhere in the vicinity of the main site are two amphitheatres and the remains of a gladiator school. Further afield is the Heidentor (“Heathens’ Gate”), a triumphal arch.
Unless you want to do a lot of walking, the only real way to visit the whole of Carnuntum is by hiring a car (I haven’t managed to find anyone who offers guided tours from Vienna). If you want to visit by public transport take the train from Wien Mitte to Petronell-Carnuntum, which takes around 50 minutes. From here it is just over a kilometre to walk to Römerstadt Carnuntum, and the nearest amphitheatre is another 20 minutes walk.
This article is now featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Vienna.
