The Real Alcazar: The Royal Palace Of Seville

Lion Bower, Alcazar, Seville

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It would be possible for a casual visitor to miss the Real Alcazar – the royal palace of Seville – hidden as it is behind a small gate near the Cathedral. The entrance gives no clue to the extent of the complex of palaces and gardens within, or of their splendour. Yet there is much here that is reminiscent of the more famous Alhambra palace in nearby Granada, or of the smaller – but equally exquite – Alcazar in Cordoba.

History Of The Real Alcazar Of Seville

The Real Alcázar de Sevilla was constructed in the 11th century by the Moors who occupied Seville for many centuries. The original building was a fortress enclosed by a massive wall (this wall still exists, which is why you might not notice the Alcazar immediately). But when the city was recaptured by the Castilian monarchs in 1248 the fortress was turned into a royal palace, a home for the Spanish royal family.

Moorish arches of the Alcazar, Seville
Typical Moorish arches and geometric patterns

Over the centuries more palaces and lush gardens were added to the site. Today it continues to host royal occasions, making it the oldest royal palace still in use in Europe. Along with the Cathedral and the Archivo de Indias, the Real Alcazar became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1987. This was partly due to the exceptional fusion of Arabic and Christian cultural influences.

Inner courtyard, Royal Palace of Seville
Inner courtyard of the Royal Alcazar of Seville

Design And Architecture Of The Real Alcazar

The Real Alcazar of Seville features a variety of architectural styles from different historical periods. The elaborate Moorish arhcitecture co-exists with later additions in a mixture of Gothic, Renaissance and Romanesque fashions. Contrasting design elements can sometimes even be seen in layers of the same wall! The main palace offers room after room of intricately constructed arches, tiles and decorative features.

Gardens of the Real Alcazar, Seville
Formal gardens of the Real Alcazar in Seville

Then there are the acres of formal gardens. Like the buildings, these have been added to and altered over the centuries. They had both a recreational and a practical function, being filled with fruit trees and other plants that supplied the palace kitchens. The Moorish influence is apparent in the use of water as a feature, with ponds and irrigation channels.

Exploring The Royal Palace Of Seville

The Alcazar is in the heart of Seville, behind the small Puerta del León on Plaza del Triunfo. As you enter you come to the Patio del León and the rooms of the royal palace. These include La Sala de la Justicia (Hall of Justice) and the royal apartments. There are centuries of history here: allow plenty of time to walk around and marvel at the ornate and varied architecture. (If any of it looks familiar that might be because it was a filming location for Game of Thrones!)

Renaissance arches, Real Alcazar, Seville
Moorish architecture topped with later Renaissance arches

The Palace Gardens

I spent much of my visit in the extensive gardens, a perfect retreat on a warm day. I walked past trees just coming into blossom, and others groaning under the weight of last year’s ripe oranges. There were lots of tour groups so I escaped into the cool seclusion of the English Garden, where it was just me and the birds. It was cool and shady here, with many trees and a trickling fountain.

Looking through an arched gateway to a garden with orange trees.
The entrance to the gardens, looking towards the orange trees

I sat for a while and listened to the sound of collared doves and a peacock in the distance, before going to investigate the maze. In contrast to the usual design, I had difficulty in finding the way in (walking all the way around before finding a tiny gap in the hedge), but managed to walk directly to the centre!

There are lots of small buildings dotted around the gardens, including the Lion Bower.    

Lion Bower, Alcazar, Seville
The Lion Bower

A covered arcade looks down over the gardens. I imagined Spanish queens sitting here on rainy days, looking over the gardens while sipping Amontillado.

Covered arcade, Alcazar, Seville
The covered arcade overlooks the gardens

The pools are not the reflecting pools of traditional Moorish architecture. However, the Moorish baths provided still water for a reflective photograph. I walked back through the inner courtyard before finally spotting the peacock that had disturbed my peace in the English Garden!

Moorish baths
The Moorish baths

Visiting The Real Alcazar

Note that the Alcazar can get very busy at peak periods. Ideal times to visit are at the beginning and end of the day, or outside the main tourist season. Alternatively you may wish to consider purchasing your tickets in advance, allowing you to join the shorter online ticket queue.

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4 thoughts on “The Real Alcazar: The Royal Palace Of Seville”

  1. Thank you for joining, the royal palace and gardens at Seville are beautiful, it's one of the highlights of my trip there and you captured it very well.

  2. You and I must be in sync. I was planning a post on this very subject tomorrow :)It was a lovely place, and extremely hot when we were there. Your photos do a good job of describing it.

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WorldWideWriter is owned and managed by Karen Warren.

I have been writing and travelling for many years (almost 70 countries at the last count), and I’ve visited every continent except Antarctica. This website is my attempt to inform and inspire other travellers, and to share some of the things I’ve discovered along the way. Read more…


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