On the edge of the Wirral Peninsula, just across the Mersey from Liverpool, is one of Britain’s most remarkable villages. Port Sunlight was built in the late 19th century by soap magnate William Hesketh Lever to house his workers, but it was much more than just a housing estate. It was designed to enhance every aspect of the villagers’ lives and wellbeing. And, as I discovered, it is still a very special place, combining the ideals of the past with the aspirations of the 21st century. And with one of the country’s finest art galleries…
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The Story Of Port Sunlight
The origins of Port Sunlight lie in the entrepreneurial vision of William Hesketh Lever, later Lord Leverhulme. A co-founder of the Lever Brothers company, he set up a new business manufacturing Sunlight soap and in 1888 he laid the foundation stone for a new factory on marshland beside the River Mersey.
However, Lever’s ambitions extended beyond commerce. He wanted to create a model village for his employees that would provide access to nature, education and culture. Unlike earlier industrial settlements such as New Lanark or Saltaire, Port Sunlight reflected the values of the emerging Arts and Crafts movement, and placed a strong emphasis on aesthetics and the physical environment.
Lever believed that beautiful surroundings would foster a happier, healthier workforce. His motive was not purely philanthropic: it was a shrewd business model, based on the idea that workers whose physical needs were taken care of would be more productive and lose less time to ill health.
A Model For Future Developments
A total of 32 architects contributed to the design of the new town, resulting in a rich tapestry of styles. Over time Port Sunlight grew to include over 900 cottages surrounded by parkland. With its combination of urban planning, public facilities and green space, the village inspired the garden city movement and became a benchmark for workers’ housing.
For almost 100 years the village was entirely inhabited by staff from the Lever Brothers (later Unilever) factory. However in the 1970s the houses started to be sold, and there is now a mixture of owned and rented properties. The Port Sunlight Village Trust oversees the upkeep and preservation of the houses and their environment: it currently has a year-long waiting list for rentals – a testament to the continuing popularity of the area as a desirable place to live.
Exploring Port Sunlight
I went on a walking tour with Terry, one of the knowledgeable local guides who show visitors around every day. He outlined the history of the village and took us into the very grand foyer of the original soap factory, still in use today for research and development and as the flagship building for Unilever’s global operations.
As we walked, Terry pointed out the varied architectural styles – Tudor, Arts and Crafts, and even mock Georgian. Almost every style of British architecture is on show here, creating a unique charm which is much in demand for film and TV productions!
We also saw several public buildings that formed part of Port Sunlight’s original welfare provision, from the social club to the pub to the inter-denominational church. A particularly notable building is Hulme Hall, built to provide dining facilities for female factory employees, but now a function room. A plaque on the wall informs visitors that the Beatles played here in the 1960s and that this was the first time that Ringo performed with the band.
Green Spaces
Open spaces were rare in workers’ housing developments of the time, but Lever regarded them as essential to health and wellbeing. Public areas include The Dell, a sunken green space built around a dammed stream, and the large village green, popular for both communal events and small group activities.
The most important green space is The Diamond, a long boulevard running through the centre of the village. Features include the rose garden with many specimen plants (including a special Port Sunlight Rose) and a sundial installation created for the late Queen’s Diamond Jubilee.
At one end of The Diamond is the war memorial: this impressive sculpture was specially commissioned by the Lever Brothers and, unusually for the time, it also pays tribute to the women and children whose lives were damaged by the war.
The Port Sunlight Museum
Our tour took us to the Port Sunlight Museum, which offers a detailed narrative of the village’s history and its founder. Here you will learn about the life of Lord Leverhulme and his vision for the factory and its employees. You’ll also find out more about the architecture and – perhaps most importantly – about the people who actually lived here.
Your ticket to the museum also includes the adjacent Edwardian worker’s cottage, which has been furnished to reflect life in the early 20th century. Though modest by current standards, each house had three or four bedrooms and – by no means universal at the time – its own toilet. Taken together with the provision of education, healthcare, art and music, the museum and the house serve as a vivid reminder of the improved living standards offered to the soap factory workers.
Lady Lever Art Gallery
But, for many visitors the highlight of a visit to Port Sunlight is the Lady Lever Art Gallery. In keeping with his vision of giving his workforce access to beauty and culture, William Lever created this museum to house his personal art collection. The result is breathtaking: one of the finest collections of painting and decorative arts in the UK.
A cornerstone of the gallery is the many important Pre-Raphaelite and other Victorian paintings. But the breadth of the collection surprised me: Lever also collected Chinese and oriental artefacts, exquisite china and tapestries. There are also five “period rooms”, such as the William and Mary Room with its oak panelling and 18th century furnishings.
The gallery also hosts a variety of special exhibitions throughout the year.
The Story Goes On
However Port Sunlight is by no means stuck in the past. It is very much a living community that continues to evolve. New uses have been found for redundant buildings: the tea rooms near the station were once the shop and post office, while the old fire station has been transformed into an artist’s studio. Artists and creatives find inspiration in Port Sunlight’s unique blend of heritage and beauty, and farmers’ markets and community events are a regular feature of village life.
As if to prove the point my visit began with coffee and pastries at Nettle Café, a newly opened independent café housed in a building that previously served as a school, library, and bank. Julia, the owner, shared her vision for the space as a holistic hub for the community, with plans for workshops, art exhibitions and other activities. It is all part of the continuing story of Port Sunlight.
How To Visit Port Sunlight
- Port Sunlight is easily accessible by train from Liverpool (26 minutes) or Chester (30 minutes).
- If you are driving there is a car park behind the Port Sunlight Museum.
- Walking tours take place every day in the morning and afternoon. It is advisable to book in advance.
- The Lady Lever Art Gallery is closed on Mondays.
- There is an entrance charge for the Lady Lever Art Gallery and for the Port Sunlight Museum.
This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Port Sunlight.
