Málaga is a place for art lovers. Not just because of the light, the colours, the narrow streets and the historic buildings, but also because of the many art galleries. And because it was the birthplace of one of the most influential artists of the 20th century – Pablo Picasso. I set out to see what I could find of Picasso in Málaga, in search of his early life and the city that shaped him.
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Picasso And Málaga
Pablo Ruiz Picasso was born in Málaga in 1881. The family lived in an apartment close to the Plaza de la Merced, a large square in the heart of the old town. His father worked as an art teacher and a museum curator, and the young Picasso learnt to draw at an early age.
An added benefit for the budding artist was that Málaga was home to a thriving community of local Andalusian painters. It was also a place with a multi-layered past – a modern port city with Phoenician, Roman and Moorish foundations. An openness to a wide variety of influences would become one of Picasso’s defining traits.
Although he left Málaga at the age of ten, Picasso never forgot his native city. The bullfights, the Mediterranean light, the religious processions, and the atmosphere of the old streets all fed into his imagination. Even decades later, when he was living in France, he would recall his early years in Málaga and their role in shaping his artistic identity.
Where To Find Picasso In Málaga
A good place to begin your exploration is the Plaza de la Merced, where a bronze statue of the artist sits on a bench. From here you can easily explore most of the main sights.
Picasso Birthplace Museum
Just beside the square is the Picasso Birthplace Museum, located in the building where Picasso was born. This is a small but interesting museum, with displays about his parents, the artistic traditions that surrounded him, and the cultural world of Málaga in the late nineteenth century.
There is a small selection of his earliest works, along with pieces by artists who shaped his development. Photographs, documents, and other exhibits look at different aspects of Picasso’s later life. You also learn about the importance of bullfighting imagery in Picasso’s art, an obsession that began here in Málaga.
Calle San Agustín
Crossing the Plaza de la Merced, you come to Calle San Agustín, one of the oldest streets in Málaga. Here you will find the Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol, the church where Picasso was baptised, a fact proudly displayed on a plaque above the door.
A little further along is the former Convent of San Agustín. This building once housed the museum and art school where Picasso’s father worked. The young Picasso would have known it well, and it’s easy to imagine him wandering these streets.
Picasso Museum
Also on Calle San Agustín is the Museo Picasso Málaga, housed in the elegant Buenavista Palace. Created partly due to the efforts of Bernard Ruiz-Picasso, the artist’s grandson, this is one of several Picasso museums in different countries, but it has a significant holding of his works.
The permanent collection contains more than two hundred items, including paintings, sculptures, ceramics, etchings, lithographs, and photographs, a testament to Picasso’s versatility and his endless quest to try something new. The collection is arranged chronologically, allowing you to trace the artist’s evolution from his early training to his boldest experiments.
You will also find works by some of Picasso’s contemporaries, as well as a changing programme of temporary exhibitions. Note that the museum is extremely popular and you will need to book in advance. Attending at the beginning of the day is recommended, but you will still need to queue to get in, even with a timed ticket.
La Malagueta Bullring
To understand a major influence on Picasso, head to the La Malagueta Bullring, on the other side of town. Whatever your personal views on bullfighting, it’s impossible to ignore its impact on Picasso. He attended bullfights from a young age, and the imagery of matadors, horses, and bulls appears throughout his work – more as a metaphor or a symbol of power than as a celebration of the fight itself.
You can look at the bullring from outside, or explore via an extensive self-guided tour. Wander around the ornate stands, step into the ring itself, and walk through the matadors’ entrances. There are short films, a virtual reality experience, and a small museum explaining the history of bullfighting in Málaga. It all helps you to understand how the bullfight was an integral part of the city’s life in Picasso’s time, and how it affected his later work.
Where Else To Find Picasso In Málaga
Elsewhere in Málaga you can find one or two of his works in the Museum of Málaga. And the Pompidou Centre, located in the lively Muelle Uno area, has rotating exhibitions, many of which include Picasso’s paintings.
For a wider context, both the Museum of Málaga and the Carmen Thyssen Museum have excellent collections of Andalusian art. Here you can explore the local themes and imagery that influenced the painter as he grew up.
A Video Tour Of Picasso’s Málaga
Watch a video tour of Picasso’s Málaga on YouTube:
This article is also featured on GPSmyCity. To download this article for offline reading or create a self-guided walking tour to visit the attractions highlighted in this article, go to Walking Tours and Articles in Malaga.
