On The Night Train To Luleå

I love train journeys, so I jumped at the chance of taking the night train to Luleå from Stockholm. On a train you are travelling, not just going from one place to another. You get a real sense of the place you’re passing through and the distance you’ve travelled in a way you don’t experience on a plane. And, of course, you can watch the landscape as it passes by.

The Night Train To Luleå

I was on my way to Swedish Lapland, in the far north of Sweden. The train left Stockholm Central Station a little before 11 o’clock in the evening, and our group was accommodated in 3-berth sleepers. These were small but perfectly adequate, but there seemed to be a whole range of other options, from seats to deluxe cabins.

We found our cabins and sorted out our bunks. Then, in the customary fashion of travel writers, we headed for the bar. An airline style map on the wall showed our route and current location. A 900km journey of 13 hours, travelling almost due north. Although both Stockholm and Luleå are on the coast, the route is mostly inland.

A bit of history here: the line from Stockholm to Boden was opened in 1894 but for defensive reasons it bypassed most of the coastal towns (connecting lines were built later). At Boden the line met the Iron Ore Line, built in the 19^th century to carry freight to Luleå.

Into Swedish Lapland

I was surprised how well I slept. So well that I missed the fabulous sunrise that some of my more insomniac companions reported seeing the next morning. I got up early and took advantage of the quiet to walk up and down the train and look out at the surrounding countryside. The light was bright but cold, casting a mist over the landscape.

We passed through forests and meadows, with the occasional lake or river. Every so often the view was broken up by a small town or by one of the red and white farmhouses that are so typical of the Swedish countryside. I spotted some wildlife: a moose with her young, a fox, and a pair of storks flexing their wings.

Later I sat in the buffet car and ate my breakfast, observing my fellow passengers. There were families with young children, and others heading north with their hiking gear. Once again I reflected on the benefits of travelling by train – I’d seen a lot of landscape, a little bit of wildlife and a few towns. And I had a much better understanding of what a big country this was, and of the remoteness of some of its major towns.

Arriving In Luleå

Luleå may be remote, but it is modern, with a thriving IT industry that includes Facebook’s only data centre in Europe. For me, the trip was primarily an opportunity to explore the fascinating Gammelstad Church Town, and to sample some of the amazingly inventive food of the region. But Swedish Lapland is also popular with outdoor adventurers, with numerous possibilities for hiking, cycling, climbing and getting away from it all. And, of course, you can enjoy the midnight sun in the summer and (possibly) catch the northern lights in winter.

Practicalities For Your Trip

• Note that times of the sleeper train from Stockholm to Luleå have changed slightly since I travelled. Check the SJ Trains website for details.
• There are several places to stay in the city of Luleå. I stayed at the ultra-modern and comfortable Clarion Hotel Sense, reputed to be the best hotel in Sweden.
• You can eat very well in Luleå, whether you are looking for fresh local food, or traditional coffee and fika. Read more about the Food of Swedish Lapland.

Many thanks to Visit Luleå and SJ railways for providing such a memorable trip.

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