Discovering The History Of The Orkney Islands

The Orkney Islands are remarkable for the amount of history they manage to pack into a small area. Not just the number of sites, but the extraordinary timespan covered. Here you will find everything from Neolithic structures to Viking settlements to remnants from the two world wars. The story of Orkney is written across its landscape, giving visitors the opportunity to travel across several millennia in a short space of time.

The Long History Of The Orkney Islands

The first settlers arrived after the last Ice Age, and were followed by a succession of Neolithic farmers, Picts, Norse invaders, Scottish lairds, and modern islanders whose lives were shaped by the sea. The location of the archipelago between Scotland and Norway meant that ownership was frequently contested. It also exposed the islands to a variety of different cultures.

All of this means that there is a vast range of history to discover. Today you can explore multiple archaeological sites (including a UNESCO World Heritage Site), historic buildings, museums and more…

Neolithic Orkney

The Orkney Mainland (the principal island) has one of the most impressive clusters of prehistoric sites anywhere in the British Isles, and the World Heritage Site known as the Heart of Neolithic Orkney is regarded as one of Europe’s most important prehistoric landscapes. It includes the 5,000 year old village of Skara Brae and other ancient sites including stone circles and chambered tombs.

Read more: The Heart Of Neolithic Orkney, A World Heritage Site.

The Viking Age And Medieval History

Neolithic settlers were followed by the Picts, and at some point Christianity arrived in Orkney. However the next group to make a major impact were the Vikings. Viking raids commenced in the 8^th century, and the islands were annexed to the self-governing territory of Norway around 875 CE. By the 12^th century Orkney was semi-autonomous but owed potential allegiance to both Scotland and Norway, and it was finally ceded to Scotland in 1472.

Orkney’s Norse period is vividly presented in the Orkneyinga Saga, which recounts the deeds of earls, warriors and saints, in particular St Magnus, the islands’ patron. In Kirkwall, the Orkney capital, you can learn more by visiting St Magnus Cathedral and the associated St Magnus Centre, as well as the Orkney Museum. And the story of the Norse Earls is told at the Orkneyinga Saga Centre (planned to reopen later in 2026).

Also in Kirkwall are the remains of the Bishop’s and Earl’s Palaces, built in the 13^th and 17^th centuries respectively. Elsewhere you can follow in the footsteps of the martyred Earl Magnus by walking the long-distance St Magnus Way, starting from the cathedral in Kirkwall and ending at Egilsay on the north of Mainland. Also to the north of the island is the Brough of Birsay, a tidal island rich in Pictish, Norse and medieval remains (only accessible at low tide).

Later History Of Orkney

From the 17^th century onwards, Orkney’s fortunes were tied to the sea. Stromness was a key port for the Hudson’s Bay Company, and many Orcadians travelled to Canada as traders, explorers and shipbuilders. Visit the small but interesting Stromness Museum for an understanding of Arctic exploration (including the life of local explorer Dr John Rae), whaling, and the Hudson’s Bay Company. You can also learn more about the period at the Orkney Museum in Kirkwall. Housed in a historic townhouse, this offers an excellent overview of Orkney’s development from prehistory to the 20^th century.

For a different perspective on this era, visit Skaill House, a 17^th century mansion. Adjacent to the neolithic site of Skara Brae, this house once belonged to the Laird of Breckness who originally unearthed the prehistoric ruins in 1850. It is now furnished as a country house and open to visitors.

The Second World War

Orkney played a crucial role in both world wars, when Scapa Flow (the harbour between Mainland and the southern islands of the archipelago) served as the main base of the British Home Fleet. Remains of buildings from World War II, together with gun batteries and lookout posts, still dot the coastline, especially around Stromness and the cliffs of Yesnaby, where military training once took place.

The most famous wartime structures are the Churchill Barriers, built in 1939 to protect the fleet after a German U-boat attack. Constructed by Italian prisoners of war, the barriers now serve as causeways linking the Orkney Mainland to several other islands. One of those islands is Lamb Holm, where those same POWs created the remarkable Italian Chapel, fashioned from two Nissen huts and exquisitely decorated using scrap materials. This is now regarded as one of Orkney’s foremost historic sites.

How To Explore The History Of The Orkney Islands

• There are daily flights to Kirkwall from several airports in Scotland. Regular buses make the 10 minute journey from the airport to Kirkwall.
• Ferries run from Scrabster to Stromness, and from Aberdeen to Kirkwall.
• Accommodation on Orkney is limited, and if visiting in the summer you will need to book well ahead. Unless you have a car and are staying in self catering elsewhere, you will probably base yourself in Kirkwall (there is one hotel in Stromness but it really is not recommended).
• If you are taking the morning sailing from Stromness to Scrabster a good tip is to take advantage of an overnight cabin the previous night.
• Car hire is possible but, again, you need to book well in advance during the summer months.
• Buses run around Orkney Mainland. It is also possible to take organised day trips from Kirkwall and Stromness.
• Many historic sites, including Skara Brae and Skaill House, are managed by Historic Environment Scotland. Entrance is free to members, and there are reciprocal arrangements for English Heritage members.
• For an overview of Orkney history visit the Orkney Museum in Kirkwall and the Stromness Museum. The Scapa Flow Museum on Hoy tells the story of the islands’ involvement in the two world wars (you can get to Hoy via a passenger ferry from Stromness).
• The St Magnus Way is a 93 km pilgrimage route from Kirkwall to Egilsay. Have a look at the website for advice on accommodation along the route.
• The 13^th century Orkneyinga Saga is good background reading on Norse culture and the Viking era.

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