An ancient town and a former pilgrimage site. Home to a full size replica of the Bayeux Tapestry. And the inspiration for Paddington Bear. The history and heritage of Reading is surprisingly varied, and – if you know where to look – there is a vast amount to discover.
Contents
A Long And Varied History
With its strategic position at the confluence of the River Thames with the River Kennet, the history of Reading goes back to Saxon times. The town was recorded in the Domesday Book, but it became more prominent with the founding of Reading Abbey in 1121. It was also an important pilgrimage site in the Middle Ages, and it was from here that many pilgrims set off on the long walk to Santiago de Compostela in Spain (a tradition that has recently been revived with the creation of the English Camino).
The later history of Reading centres around its industrial development, partly due to its river transport links. One of the most important companies was Huntley & Palmers, the biscuit company founded by Joseph Huntley in 1822. As you walk around you’ll note that the town centre is dotted with buildings from the Victorian era, and that some of them are quite grand, like the Town Hall, designed by Alfred Waterhouse (who was also responsible for London’s Natural History Museum).
The Abbey Quarter
Very close to the Railway Station and the Town Hall, you reach the medieval Abbey Quarter via Forbury Gardens, once a huge open market place and a location for large gatherings. Here you will see evidence of fortifications from the English Civil War, the 13th century Abbey Gateway, and the remains of the abbey itself. There are several information boards giving more detail about the site.
Although not extensive, the ruins of Reading Abbey give a glimpse of the town in medieval times. The abbey was founded by King Henry I: he is known to have been buried here but his tomb has never been discovered (in a move reminiscent of Richard III and Leicester efforts are currently being made to locate his burial place beneath a car park…).
It was here that King John was informed that his nobles were withdrawing their support for him, an event that led to the signing of the Magna Carta in 1215. The abbey was destroyed during the 16th century Dissolution of the Monasteries.
On the edge of the Abbey Quarter is the medieval church of St Laurence. Historically this housed many relics including (supposedly) the hand of St James. Look for the scallop shell outside the church: this indicates that it is on the route of the English Camino to Santiago, which starts nearby.
Reading’s Museums
The town’s museums showcase different aspects of the history and heritage of Reading.
Reading Museum
The Reading Museum is housed in the Town Hall. The most impressive exhibit here is a full-size replica of the Bayeux Tapestry, created in the 19th century and now displayed in a specially designed gallery. (It was intended to be an exact copy, but if you have seen the original you may spot one difference: the Victorian embroiderers seem to have felt the need to add clothes to some of the naked figures!)
Elsewhere in the museum look out for a display of artefacts from Huntley & Palmers, a local company and one of the world’s largest biscuit manufacturers. And for the Silchester Gallery, with information and exhibits from the nearby Roman town of Silchester.
Riverside Museum
A short walk away, beside a lock on the River Kennet, is the Riverside Museum. Housed in two former waterworks buildings, this tells the story of Reading’s two rivers. The Turbine House overlooks the lock and holds a display of turbine machinery, while the Screen House has an ornate gypsy caravan and a collection of river-related artefacts.
Occasional exhibitions and events are held in the Turbine House.
Museum Of English Rural Life
A little way from the town centre is the Museum of English Rural Life. Based in the University of Reading, this is the largest agricultural museum in England. It showcases farming and the countryside, past and present, and exhibits include farming implements and vehicles as well as objects from the 1951 Festival of Britain. This is a real cornucopia of agricultural artefacts, with items including farm workers’ smocks and shoes, and the Wagon Walk, featuring different types of wagons from across the country.
A room is devoted to the local Roma people and the museum also houses the Ladybird Gallery, an extensive collection of the famous children’s books. The venue is family friendly, with trails for children to follow as they go round. You can stop in the café for a drink and a snack, and sit in the large garden with its kitchen garden style plantings.
Literary Connections
Then there are Reading’s literary connections…
Oscar Wilde
For many visitors Reading is inextricably linked with Oscar Wilde, who was imprisoned here, and later wrote his famous poem The Ballad of Reading Gaol. The jail still exists and can be seen from the outside, but there is an ambitious plan to transform it into a hotel and events space, retaining the cell in which Wilde was detained as a historic feature. One part of the building that is currently visible is a side wall with a painting by Banksy of Wilde escaping from the jail!
Jane Austen
Jane Austen is more commonly associated with Bath; her connection with Reading is less well known. However for a short while, from 1785-6, she was a boarder at Reading Ladies Boarding School, which was located in the Abbey Gateway. She later drew inspiration from this experience for Mrs Goddard’s school in her novel Emma. Today, the gateway is set up as a Victorian-style schoolroom, popular with visitors and school groups.
You can visit the schoolroom as part of an Abbey Quarter Tour.
Paddington Bear
Finally, there is Michael Bond, creator of Paddington Bear. He lived in Reading during the Second World War, and the sight of child evacuees arriving at the station with suitcases and labels around their necks inspired him to create his very own refugee bear. A model of Paddington sitting on a bench in the town centre pays tribute to the stories.
Thanks to Visit Reading for arranging my exploration of the town.
