Last time I was in Christianshavn, the lively canals and islands area of Copenhagen, I saw a man with an iguana draped over his shoulder. I was on my way to Freetown Christiania, a self-styled independent republic. It is the sort of place where you can expect the unexpected, where iguanas would be more welcome than cars or outside lawmakers.
The colourful entrance to Freetown Christiania
What is Freetown Christiania?
Freetown Christiania began as an attempt by squatters to occupy the disused barracks and defensive structures alongside the Stadsgraven Canal. It soon developed into a collective community, attracting freethinkers, bohemians and drug dealers. In 1971 it declared itself a “self-governing society”, and it has had an uneasy relationship with the Copenhagen authorities ever since.
The community grew up around disused barracks
Today Christiania has around a thousand inhabitants. No cars are allowed (there are a surprising number of rules for such a free-spirited community). So everyone gets about by bike, most commonly the distinctive Christiania cargo bikes – bikes with front trailers, which we saw carrying anything from children to groceries and fresh meat. The rules make it a quiet and peaceful place, slightly at odds with its reputation as a drug users’ paradise. In fact, although the main road is known as Pusher Street, with drugs openly on sale, hard drugs are strictly forbidden. (If you walk down Pusher Street you are advised not to take photographs, as even soft drugs are illegal in Denmark.)
The houses are all individually designed and built
Exploring Freetown Christiania
It has to be said that Christiania is more of a curiosity than a tourist attraction. However, there are features that make it worth a visit. The creativity of the residents is apparent: there are outdoor sculptures, and every available surface seems to be painted with vivid patterns. The houses are individually designed, often brightly coloured and with a certain “home-made” quality. As you walk around, you’ll spot other quirks such as the “Embassy of Uzhupis” (Užupis is a similar bohemian community in Vilnius, Lithuania).
Pinnable image of Freetown Christiania
For myself, I enjoyed the canal side walk, past the remains of the city’s defences. The locals were enjoying the summer sunshine, picnicking and sunbathing on the grass beside the water. Further along, I found a peaceful path, with the mounts of a rampart on one side, a nature reserve on the other. There were birds, butterflies and wild flowers, a pleasant retreat in the heart of the city.
A peaceful path in Freetown Christiania
I was in Copenhagen during a long layover and did the iconic canal cruise. Obviously, there’s so much more to do — Christiana looks really interesting!
We were in Copenhagen in 2014 but declined to visit Christiania. I thought a place with free and open cannabis trade might be risky. I’m glad I saw it through your lens!
I saw a segment about Christiania on a TV news program. I’m afraid our brief visit to Copenhagen provided only enough time to see the LIttle Mermaid statue in the harbor, to visit a museum and a castle and to eat what seemed like outrageously expensive food. Christiania looks like an intriguing place.
Outrageously expensive food seems to be a fact of life in Copenhagen, only outranked by the even more outrageously expensive alcohol!
Thx for the interesting post, Karen. I’ve not yet been to Copenhagen, but when I get there, I’ll try and make time for a visit to Christiania.
We visited Christiania many years ago with our children. We were all on bikes and it was a fun place to ride through. I found it a bit odd though. It is a place where the residents started out as squatters and free-thinkers who abhor rules and yet so many of the houses looked like they are now regarded as private property.
Yes, I felt a bit of the same sort of disconnect about the place.