Oxford is a city of storytellers. Not just the famous writers of the past, but the present inhabitants too, the people who share their anecdotes to bring the city to life. On a recent visit I met some of the modern storytellers, the enthusiasts who create the Oxford walking tours, and the guides to some of the city’s best known institutions. Whatever their specialism, they shared an ability to turn the ancient streets and famous buildings into living narratives.
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A Tour Of The Bodleian Library
My day began at the Bodleian Library, where I joined a group tour. Our guide was Tom, and our destination was the former Divinity School, which housed the university’s very first library. Like the long-ago students, we entered through the original door, built in 1488, and marvelled at the carved stone ceiling, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture.
But, impressive as the building was, it was the stories that caught my imagination. We were told how – at a time when printed matter was rare and expensive – the university received a donation of books and needed somewhere to keep them. And, upstairs in the equally grand Duke Humphrey’s Library, we heard tales of book banning and destruction, and the more inspiring account of how the world’s first copyright library was born.
As so often in Oxford, different stories overlapped with one another. As if the library didn’t have enough tales of its own to tell, we also learnt that it was used as a location in the Harry Potter films, adding a touch of magic to its scholarly aura.
A City Of Stories
Later I met up with Lucy from the Oxford Guild of Tour Guides. She explained how their city walking tours help visitors connect with Oxford’s layered history. Everyone has their own area of expertise, and tours are often on a particular theme. I was intrigued to learn that, although they mostly follow similar routes, each guide weaves a different narrative around the famous landmarks.
For our group, Lucy had assembled guides with diverse interests. From science and medicine, to the history of the university, to children’s literature and filming locations, there was an enormous range of knowledge on offer. Even better, as I realised when we set off to discover Oxford, they were all entertaining raconteurs.
Literature, Films… And Some Oxford Ghosts
Oxford has long been the inspiration for writers such as C S Lewis, J R R Tolkien and Lewis Carroll, so it is no surprise that children’s literature is a popular subject for tours. We were shown the passageway that supposedly inspired Narnia (with a lion’s head, faun and lamp post), and the pub where Lewis and Tolkien once drank. And outside the Bodleian Library we saw a series of modern gargoyles designed by local school children, many of them based on literary characters such as Tweedledum and Tweedledee.
One of our guides was an expert in the world of Inspector Morse – the popular Oxford-based detective – and was able to show us places associated with the books. And of course, with its cobbled streets and historic buildings, Oxford is a favourite location for film makers. Not just Morse and Harry Potter, but classics such as Brideshead Revisited and The Golden Compass.
For me, the biggest revelation was the number of ghost stories (yes, there is a tour guide who specialises in ghosts). Oxford is said to be one of the most haunted cities in the country, and I was drawn in by some hair-raising and “well verified” tales…
The Long History Of The University Of Oxford
Ultimately, all of these narratives come back to what is, after all, England’s oldest university. It is this ancient institution that created the libraries and the historic colleges, and nurtured the city’s literary and intellectual talent. We heard about the early history of the university, then stopped outside the History of Science Museum, itself full of stories about Oxford’s eminent scientists, and their discoveries.
We paused outside the historic Blackwell’s Bookshop (home to the world’s largest bookselling area) and beside the one-time home of the Oxford University Press. The latter was responsible for sales of the original King James Bible and later of the Oxford English Dictionary, generating much of the wealth that makes the city what it is today.
As we walked our hosts reminded us that Oxford isn’t just a destination, but a continuous narrative full of hidden stories. Each guide has their own voice, and each visitor their own perspective. I went away with lots of food for thought.
Taking An Oxford Walking Tour
Whether you are exploring Oxford for the first time, or getting to know an individual building, a tour with an expert guide can be the best way of learning more about the city.
- Tours of Oxford can be taken with members of the Oxford Guild of Tour Guides. Members are all Green Badge accredited, and are experts in their subjects. They offer private tours, either general or themed. See the website for details.
- You can also take tours of individual buildings. I took a tour with the Bodleian Library, which has a range of options including the Divinity School and Duke Humfrey’s Library, and the 18th century Radcliffe Camera.
- Some of the Oxford colleges are also open to visitors.
- London is an easy day trip from London (just over 50 minutes on the train from Paddington Station). If you are planning a longer stay have a look at the accommodation choices on booking.com.
Thanks to the Bodleian Library, and to Lucy and members of the Oxford Guild of Tour Guides for arranging my day in Oxford.
