You may be familiar with the Camino de Santiago, the ancient pilgrimage route to the tomb of St James in Compostela in northern Spain. But did you know that there is an English Camino, a part of the Camino Inglés that British pilgrims may once have taken on the way to Compostela? I followed the path from Reading to Southampton to discover what such a walk would look like today.
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The English Way Of St James
Pilgrims have been visiting the shrine of Santiago de Compostela since the 9th century: it later became one of the three great pilgrimages of Christendom (the others being to Jerusalem and Rome). Visitors came from all across northern Europe, creating a network of paths across the continent. More than 200 Camino routes are now officially recognised, but there are many more unofficial paths.
British pilgrims faced an additional hurdle: they had to reach the coast in order to take a boat to Spain to continue their journey. In recent years attempts have been made to recreate some of these paths, both for walkers and for those who want to make the full pilgrimage to Compostela. One of these is the Way of St James (or Camino Inglés), a 110 km (68.5 mile) path from Reading to Southampton, that follows a probable route dating from the Middle Ages.
The Varied Landscape Of The English Camino
There are all sorts of reasons to hike the English Camino. For some it is the physical challenge; for others it is the pilgrimage itself, following in the steps of wayfarers through the centuries. There is the history and possibly the discovery of a new part of the country. And, of course, you can just walk to enjoy the countryside.
There is a tremendous variety of landscape in this trail. Much of it is beside water, from the Kennet and Avon Canal to the River Itchen. You’ll see weirs, locks and meandering streams. But you’ll also pass through cornfields and woodland, wildflower meadows and sleepy villages. And, as you approach the rolling hills of the South Downs, there are sweeping views in all directions.
A Journey Through History
Even if you are not a pilgrim yourself, you are always aware that this is a pilgrimage path, that you are following in the steps of your medieval forbears. So it is not surprising that the Way of St James should feature numerous historic churches. For our medieval pilgrim these places of worship would have had a practical as well as a spiritual purpose, providing somewhere to stop overnight and perhaps also to find some sustenance.
The start of the Camino Inglés is beside the Church of St James and the ruins of Reading Abbey, supposedly the one-time repository of one of the saint’s hands. As you walk you’ll discover the medieval wall paintings of St James in Bramley and the tiny church of St Mary the Virgin in Preston Candover (described as “a treasure of the Camino”). And, of course, there is also the magnificent cathedral in Winchester.
But it isn’t all churches. For much of the way you are following the old Roman road, and the route takes you through the Roman town of Silchester. There is a wealth of history in Winchester, and medieval town walls to explore in Southampton. And at one point you follow the historic Ox Drove, along which cattle would once have been driven to market.
The End Of The Pilgrimage
The trail ends at God’s House Tower in Southampton, a defensive tower later used as a prison. Here you can obtain a completion certificate for the Camino (see practical information below); you can also explore the tower and enjoy a well-deserved drink and a snack in their café.
But it is not necessarily the end. For a medieval pilgrim the next challenge would have been to travel to La Coruña in Spain to make the onward journey to Santiago de Compostela. And, although you can no longer travel by boat from Southampton to Spain, modern transport connections make it possible for contemporary travellers to continue their journey on the other side of the water.
Enjoying The Walk
The route is mostly flat and for the most part the walk is undemanding. However in some places the paths can be overgrown and uneven, and the riverside sections may become waterlogged after heavy rain, making diversions inevitable. For us, walking in August, there were no particular issues apart from having to avoid the sometimes over-enthusiastic brambles growing beside the path.
My favourite part was the section between New Alresford and Itchen Abbas, passing watercress beds and the crystal clear waters of a chalk stream. With the added attractions of a country pub and a church with stained glass inspired by Sainte-Chapelle in Paris. But the sheer variety of the walk meant that there was something new to see every day.
We made the trip easier by using the friendly and efficient Walking The Camino who arranged overnight accommodation and luggage transfer. They kept us up to date with possible detours to the route, and suggested stopping places for food, drink and exploration along the way.
Now I just have to decide whether to take the final steps – across the sea and into Spain – to complete my modern pilgrimage…
Practical Information For Hiking The English Way Of St James
- The best time to tackle the trail is during the summer months, as the paths may become waterlogged at other times. However note that some parts of the path can be overgrown at times: long trousers and sturdy footwear are recommended.
- The route is well waymarked with characteristic yellow and blue markers. However, there are occasional diversions and one or two places where alternative routes exist. It is advisable to take a map and/or to download a phone app, and to check the official website for any changes.
- Walking The Camino offer a choice of 4, 5, 6, 7 or 8-day itineraries, including accommodation and baggage transfer. I chose to walk over 8 days in order to enjoy the countryside and explore en route.
- You may wish to purchase a “pilgrim passport”, which can be stamped at several places along the way. Make sure you get it stamped at least once a day, as well as at the start of the trail and twice in Winchester: it can then be exchanged for a certificate of completion at God’s House Tower in Southampton.
- The Spanish section of the Camino Inglés runs from A Coruña in the region of Galicia. If you decide to follow this section your UK mileage will count towards a final Compostela certificate.
- For more about long distance hiking have a look at this post – A Novice’s Guide To Hiking Britain’s Long Distance Paths.
Camino Inglés On YouTube
If you’d like to see more of my walk along the Camino Inglés have a look at this video on YouTube:
Thanks to Peter and Jane of Walking The Camino for offering a discounted rate to my husband and myself, and for providing information and assistance along the way.
