Today the Kennet and Avon Canal is mostly known as an amenity, a place for boat trips, countryside walks and nature spotting. But it is also a marvel of Georgian engineering: the challenges of building across a hilly landscape apparent in the numerous locks that carry the water up and down the slopes. One of the most dramatic points on the canal is the Caen Hill Locks, near the town of Devizes, one of the longest – and most impressive – lock flights in England.
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The Kennet And Avon Canal
The Kennet and Avon Canal was an ambitious project, designed to provide a direct route between London and the Bristol Channel by linking the River Thames to the navigable sections of the rivers Kennet and Avon. Construction began in 1794 under the guidance of the engineer John Rennie.
The canal was completed in the early 19th century, and immediately began to carry a wide variety of cargoes including coal, timber, grain and building materials. It was so successful that gas lights were installed to make it easier for traffic to pass at night. However, the coming of the railways gradually reduced the amount of commercial traffic and by the mid-20th century the canal had fallen into disuse.
Campaigners later fought to save the route, and volunteers worked alongside British Waterways and the Kennet and Avon Canal Trust to bring the waterway back into use. Following a lengthy restoration programme, it reopened in 1990.
A Feat Of Engineering
The steepness of the terrain in many places meant that construction of the waterway was a major undertaking involving aqueducts, bridges, and numerous locks. One of the most difficult problems was finding a way across the countryside around Devizes. The canal needed to climb a very steep hill, and consideration was even given to building a tunnel through the hillside, a plan that was eventually abandoned due to cost.
The eventual solution was to build a flight of 29 locks over a space of around three kilometres. This is not quite the longest continuous flight of locks in Britain – that honour goes to the Tardebigge Flight on the Worcester & Birmingham Canal, which has 30 locks in all. But it has its own record, as the Devizes flight ascends a total of 72m, as opposed to Tardebigge’s 67m. (In case you’re wondering, the gradient of the slope is an amazing 1 in 44…)
Within this section is Caen Hill, where 16 locks climb the hillside in a dramatic straight line between Foxhangers Wharf Lock and Devizes. Moving boats through so many locks required a large volume of water, so the engineers incorporated side ponds alongside many of the locks. These reservoirs helped conserve water by storing and reusing it during the operation of the locks.
The Caen Hill Flight is now protected as a Scheduled Ancient Monument.
Exploring The Caen Hill Locks
Caen Hill is fascinating to visit, not just to marvel at the spectacle of so many locks in such a short space, but also to watch the canal boats working their way through the steep flight. Two-way traffic is possible because boats can pass in either direction, while the side ponds help to reduce water loss.
The towpath and the surrounding woodland offer pleasant walking routes. And it is a great place for nature lovers: the ponds, trees and waterside vegetation attract birds, insects and other wildlife. Then there is the added bonus of sweeping views across the Marlborough Downs and the Vale of Pewsey.
Devizes Wharf And Museum
From Caen Hill you can walk along the canal towards Devizes Wharf, one of the town’s seven wharves that would have handled everything from timber to grain. Some of the old warehouses have now been repurposed, and in the summer boat trips are possible. Nearby are reminders of the area in wartime, with old pillboxes and “dragon’s teeth” (concrete fortifications designed to slow down approaching tanks).
Located in a former corn warehouse, the Kennet and Avon Canal Trust Museum tells the story of the canal, from its initial construction to its wartime role to its revival and restoration. (Note that the museum has very limited opening hours – see the website for details.)
Visiting The Caen Hill Locks
- Car parking is available close to the locks (follow signs to Rowde – satnav postcode SN10 1RF). There is also a car park at Devizes Wharf.
- You can walk along the canal towpath from Devizes Wharf to Caen Hill in around 25 minutes.
- The Caen Hill Café offers drinks and snacks. More substantial meals are available in the nearby Black Horse Inn.
- It is easy to walk to the town centre from the wharf. Here you will find shops, historic buildings and the excellent Wiltshire Museum.
- For more to do in Wiltshire and the surrounding area have a look at this post – Days Out In Wiltshire: History, Towns And Countryside.
