We could have taken the funicular to the top of Lycabettus Hill, the highest point in Athens. But the path was more inviting, winding its way upwards through a pine-scented landscape rich with legends. Besides, I wanted to try to find the rock church of Saint Isidore.
Lycabettus Hill – a classic Greek landscape in the heart of the city
A View From the Top
Mount Lycabettus is higher even than the Acropolis. (Confusingly, Acropolis means “highest point of the city” but there is no contradiction here; Lycabettus was outside the boundary of the ancient city.) It was a steep climb up, but worth it for the classic Greek landscape. We walked between pines and olive trees, the path lined with wild flowers and prickly pears everywhere.
A steep but rewarding climb up Lycabettus Hill…
…with prickly pears everywhere
There was hardly anyone about, but half way up we were disturbed by a sudden movement and watched as a large tortoise ran past us and into the undergrowth.
A tortoise rushed past us
Then there were the panoramic views. Right over the city, to the Acropolis and across the sea towards the Peloponnese.
Mount Lycabettus allows spectactular views across the city
Legends of Lycabettus Hill
This is a place of legends. Lycabettus means “hill of wolves” and it is said that wolves once roamed the slopes, protected by the goddess Athena. But the most famous story concerns Athena herself, who was carrying a massive rock to the Acropolis with the intention of building herself a temple that would reach up to the sky. But on the way she was disturbed by two ravens and dropped the rock, so creating Mount Lycabettus.
A Hidden Church on Lycabettus Hill
At the very top of the hill we stopped at the café to have something to eat and to enjoy the views. I had also hoped to visit the small chapel of St George but it was closed for cleaning. However I did manage to peep around the door, confirming the guidebook description of it as “of little interest”.
St George’s Chapel is at the very top of Lycabettus hill
In fact, I was more interested in finding the rock church of St Isidore (or Isidorus). We had diligently followed the signs on the way up but seen no sign of it, and the one or two people we met appeared to be unaware of its existence. Certainly it seems to be little known; I had heard about it from a local guide but could find no mention in the guidebook. But, coming down the hill by a different route, we spotted the cave entrance high above the path. A long stairway reached enticingly up to it but unfortunately the gate at the bottom was locked; a sign outside showed that the church only opens for services and special events.
A stairway reaches up to the rock church of St Isidore
Still, I had found the church, enjoyed the views and given my legs a good workout. And I had met a tortoise along the way. I couldn’t ask for more than that!
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What a fabulous view from the top of the hill. Sadly the day we were supposed to visit Mt Lycabettus it was cloudy and the heavens opened so we missed our opportunity so it's great to see what we missed.
It was lovely, but I don't think I'd have liked it on a wet day! So you have an excuse for a return visit…
Thanks for taking us there Karen, I enjoyed my tour up to the hill for sunset and that was truly special. I loved your whole experience and the turtle pic too!
The entire climb was worth it just for that incredible view. How fast does a tortoise run? Loved that you found the ancient church, too.
Wow, that view of the Acropolis and beyond is fantastic!
Yes, it really puts the city into perspective.
Well worth the climb! That is a gorgeous view. I was in Athens in the 1970s and would love to go back.
I think you'd find it very different now. Well worth a return visit.
Thank you for the tour – I am planning a visit to Greece this summer – I have really enjoyed your posts.
Beautiful. I was surprised to see a prickly pear cactus. I didn't realize they could be found in the Athens area.
I think you find prickly pears all over Greece but, as you say, it's a bit of a surprise to find them right in the middle of the city.
This sounds like a strenuous hike but well worth the time and effort for the vistas seen as well as the places where so many legends began. The chapel of St. George may have been described as "of little interest" but your picture of the church against the blue sky and clouds is beautiful!
Thanks – you're right of course, the chapel at the top of the hill is a lovely sight.
Sure looks like it was worthwhile to make the trek to the top!
I, too, would have opted to walk the trail to find the rock church of Saint Isidore. Thanks for taking me along with you to find it, but I was disappointed not to get to go inside. 🙁
Yes, I was a bit disappointed too. But at least I found it!
Lovely reminder of the walk up Mt Lycabettus –
I was lucky enough to see inside the chapel at the top and the murals there were beautiful along with silver repousee work around the faces on the oil paintings –
I was then struck by the view of the low level white painted suburbs disappearing way into the distance in all directions, when you were able to peel your eyes away from the Acropolis and the Agean sea that lay before you!
Interesting – the guidebook suggested there wasn't much to see in the chapel. Goes to show they aren't always right!
That view of the Acropolis from the top alone is worth the hike. Beautiful shots 🙂